Can Ghana’s new claim over Kente change the way fashion brands use African designs?
Intellectual Property
Ghana Enhances Protection for Kente Fabric
Ghana has initiated measures to strengthen the intellectual property rights and geographical indication (GI) status of Kente, a traditional handwoven fabric. This move aims to ensure that the cultural heritage associated with Kente is preserved and that its origins are acknowledged globally.
Legal Recognition and Cultural Heritage
Kente, known for its distinctive geometric patterns and symbolic colors, is more than just a fabric; it is a symbol of dignity and authority. In December 2024, Kente was recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage. This recognition is intended to protect Kente as a national symbol and to ensure that international commercial use acknowledges its Ghanaian origins, potentially generating royalties for local weavers.
Impact on the Fashion Industry
The introduction of these protections challenges the fashion industry’s current practices, where African-inspired designs are often used without formal agreements or compensation. This development is expected to prompt discussions on ethical sourcing and may require brands to negotiate usage rights or co-branding partnerships with Ghanaian designers, similar to how products like Champagne and Darjeeling tea are protected.
Cultural Ownership and Creative Freedom
There is debate within the design community about the potential impact of stricter protections on creative freedom. While some see it as a necessary correction, others question the feasibility of global enforcement due to the adaptable nature of design.
Potential for Broader Application
Ghana’s initiative may encourage other African countries to take similar steps to protect their traditional crafts. For example, Nigeria has considered protection for Aso-Oke and Adire textiles, and both Kenya and Tanzania have explored frameworks to safeguard Maasai intellectual property. Successful international recognition of Kente could lead to a broader movement ensuring that the creators of African designs receive appropriate compensation.
